Once all these parts are safely out of the way, pull upward on the top part of the mount. In newer versions of the mount, the central shaft has apparently been lengthened slightly, making the brass spacers unnecessary. They are necessary in older models to keep the steel washer from pressing down too hard on the plastic bushing top. Underneath the steel washer, you may find a couple of little thin brass washers. Set the bolt and washer aside for future reassembly. Normally, this is used for lubricating squeaky hinges on doors. You can most likely get a can of teflon spray at a hardware store. Though it has nothing to do with getting the can open, take this washer and file the bottom side very smooth and round off the edge to keep it from damaging the plastic bushing underneath any more than it has.Ĭoat the bottom side of the steel washer with a few coats of spray-on teflon once you have it smooth. The bottom side of this washer will most likely be rough, with a relatively sharp edge. The easiest way to unscrew the bolt is by using a socket wrench with a 13mm socket.Īfter unscrewing the bolt, remove the steel washer. You will see the top of a hex head bolt that holds things together. I thought talking about the azimuth portion would be easier and a good place to start. This is a first attempt and something like this for me. Later, I hope to write about the altitude section of the mount, but I need to think about that some more.
I thought it would be best to put it all together. Some of this is a repeat from another post. If someone has an AutoStar mount that is not in warranty with azimuth drive troubles, the parts can be accessed by doing the following to get inside the lower housing or "can." It is intended for someone with a reasonable amount of mechanical aptitude, mechanical ability, and/or curiosity about how the AutoStar mount works. The following is not being written as something an owner of an AutoStar mount should do as a mater of course.
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